The Argentine or Ornate Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata) is best known by the popular nickname – the “Pac Man Frog”. This old video game character seemed to be all mouth and was always hungry – exactly like a healthy Horned Frog. But if you can keep their ravenous appetites satisfied with a healthy diet (see below) and meet their other needs, you will be rewarded with a hardy pet that may reach 20+ years of age. Although many frog fans consider the wild form to be quite beautiful, breeders have also developed a huge array of multi-colored individuals – including some that appear neon-clad!

Natural History

Argentine Horned Frogs are native to Argentina, Uruguay and Brazil, where they dwell in savannas and similar habitats. In some parts of their range, they become dormant/hibernate during cool, dry periods.

Seven other Horned Frog species inhabit South America. Of these, the Cranwell’s Horned Frog (Ceratophrys cranwelli) is most frequently seen in the pet trade.

Horned Frog tadpoles made the news some time ago when it was discovered that they communicate with one another by sound. Some herpetologists believe that these calls may prevent the carnivorous little beasts from preying upon their relatives… “Hey, I’m your sibling, eat someone else”!

Hunting Behavior and Diet

Due to their size (females, the larger sex, reach nearly 7 inches in length…and are about that wide as well!) and aggressive personalities, Horned Frogs are, in some places, believed to be venomous and to attack livestock. They are not and do not…unless, perhaps, your livestock consists of mice! But they are very effective predators. Field research indicates that other frogs make up approximately 80% of the Argentine Horned Frog’s diet; invertebrates, birds, snakes and rodents are also consumed with relish.

Horned Frogs hunt with the aid of huge, Pac-Man-like mouths, powerful jaws and bony jaw projections, similar to teeth, which are called odontoid structures. They bite readily in self-defense, and also at fingers moved nearby when they are hungry (which is always!). Fortunately for their human admirers, Horned Frogs are clumsy, and may safely be grasped behind the front legs.

Housing

Horned Frogs are classic “sit and wait” predators, and rarely move unless necessary. Although it’s always best to provide the largest home possible, an adult female can be kept in a 20-gallon aquarium; males may even be kept in 15-gallon tanks if necessary.

Horned Frog habitats should be easy to clean, as they produce huge amounts of toxic waste products. Although very hardy in general, Horned Frogs can quickly expire if kept in contact with fouled water or substrate. This is, no doubt, the main cause of pet deaths.

A bare-bottomed aquarium, tilted on one side to create a small water section, is ideal, as it can easily be dumped and cleaned. Alternatively, a water bowl and a plastic terrarium liner can be utilized. All water should be treated with drops that instantly remove chlorine and chloramines.

Horned Frogs do not require plants or other furnishings, and most are quite content without a hiding spot. However, to be on the safe side, I provide shelters. My favorite is a suction-cup equipped plastic terrarium plant attached to the tank’s wall so that it reaches almost to the bottom. Frogs desiring to hide will push their way underneath.

Substrate

Horned Frogs will happily swallow gravel and other substrates along with their meals. Bare-bottomed terrariums or washable cage liners are the safest options for them. Some keepers report success with sphagnum moss and coconut husk, but in these cases all meals should be offered via tongs (long-handled tongs if you value your fingers!).

Light, Heat and Humidity

Horned Frogs do not require UVB light, but low levels may offer some benefits. I favor bulbs designed for use with amphibians, such as the Zoo Med 2.0. Cover in the form of plastic plants or a cave is advisable if the light is left on all day.

They prefer high humidity, but as long as a water bowl is present, Horned Frogs do fine with the humidity levels in most homes (then again, I’ve never lived in Arizona in the summer!).

A temperature range of 72-85 F is preferred. An incandescent bulb, below-tank heat pad, or ceramic heater can be used to warm the terrarium, but be aware that each of these will dry the air considerably. Daily spraying with de-chlorinated water can be used to counteract this.

Companions

Juveniles should be housed singly as they invariably try to swallow even like-sized tank-mates - sometimes even larger tankmates! In fact, this is so common that Horned Frog breeders have coined the term “mustache syndrome” to describe a frog sitting with another’s rear legs protruding from its mouth because the meal is too large to swallow. Same-sized adults may co-exist, but should be fed separately as bites can occur at feeding time.

Feeding

Horned Frogs do best on diets composed mainly of earthworms/night crawlers, crickets and roaches. Pink mice or small whole fish can be offered once each 7-10 days. While some people report success feeding adult mice and even small rats to Horned Frogs, this may eventually lead to liver problems and fur impactions. Live rodents (other than pink mice) are also capable of biting your frog while being swallowed. Any injury to an amphibian’s skin is a serious matter.

Crayfishes, waxworms, butterworms, black soldier fly larvae (calci-worms), hornworms and silkworms should be used to add variety to your frog’s diet.

All food should be powdered with a calcium plus D3 supplement marketed for pet reptiles and amphibians. Vitamin/mineral supplements should be used 2-3 times weekly.

Youngsters do best when fed daily or every-other-day. Adult frogs require only 1-2 feedings per week, or they can be given smaller, more frequent meals.

Water

Water should be changed daily and treated with chlorine/chloramine remover (sold by pet stores for use with tropical fish).

Caution!

The sharp, tooth-like odontoid structures lining the powerful lower jaw can inflict painful bites. Even calm, long-term pets will often instinctively bite fingers moved about within range.

It is a simple matter to safely pick up a Horned Frog by grasping it behind the front legs. Use wet hands, so that you do not remove the protective mucus from their skin, and handle only when necessary. Wash well after handling any animal.

Please write I with any questions you may have, or to share your own experiences with these fascinating, pugnacious frogs. Thanks and enjoy, Haiden